Chasing Icebergs

We left the park a little after 9 a.m. for our drive along the Viking Trail. The scenery as we drove through Gros Morne National Park is spectacular. It reminded us of Arizona, but with trees! The drive up the coast reminded us of driving parts of the South Carolina or Florida coast, minus the high rise buildings. It was hard to believe the water we were looking at was the Gulf of St. Lawrence – it was as blue as blue could be.  As we headed further north, the channel narrowed and we could see Labrador. 

Arches Provincial Park

We stopped at The Arches Provincial Park and several points along the way to take photos and in one little town for lunch. As the day and the kilometres marched on, we became anxious to get to our destination. It was still a very sunny day but the temperature was dropping as we headed north. We decided to head to the lighthouse at St. Anthony’s before going to our B&B in L’Ans-aux Meadows, as we heard this is where all the icebergs are right now. 

Daniel's Harbour

Icebergs at Goose Cove

It was 4 p.m. as we neared this location, and it became evident we weren’t likely to see anything – the fog was rolling in thickly and quickly. We parked our car and ventured out the to farthest point only to hear the fog horn within yards of us. All we could see were a few bergy bits. There was one larger piece, but nothing like we hoped to see. As we were returning to the car, and while Marcel was taking a picture of the sign at this location, I noticed a coast guard vehicle entering the parking lot. We stopped it and asked if they thought the fog would lift. We explained we had just driven almost 500 km to see icebergs and were quite disappointed that it was so foggy. The fellow told us to drive to Goose Cove. He said there are lots of bergs there and he didn’t think the fog was heading in that direction. 

Icebergs at Goose Cove

Icebergs at Goose Cove

Goose Cove

We jumped in the car and made a bee line for Goose Cove which was about 11 km away. As we drove closer to it – it looked promising and we were not disappointed. We turned the corner and went over a hill to see fantastic icebergs. We parked the car and walked the trail up the hill and across a field to a gazebo where we could get a better look – one was the size of a large house – and the blue halo that surrounded it was stunning. Another looked like a piece of an airstrip – very long and low to the water. Another looked like it had been a massive iceberg that had recently split in two on top, but was perhaps still attached below water. 

Fog rolling in at Goose Cove

All you could hear from the two of us was oohs and aaahhhs and the clicking of our camera shutters. There was a path that led to the top of a steep hill to the left of us overlooking the bay. We decided to walk it to get a closer look at the one with the blue halo. As we neared the top, the fog began to set in – and it came quickly. As Marcel aimed at one iceberg to get a shot – another would disappear into the fog. We couldn’t believe how quickly it completely hid the bergs from view and they were quite close to shore. 

View from our B&B

We returned to our car and headed for Marilyn’s Hospitality House (our B&B in L’Ans-aux Meadows).  I could see the fog in all directions, but once again as we rounded a corner and the bay came into view, there in the middle of the bay sat a huge block of ice!  We arrived shortly after 5. I apologized for interrupting their dinner. Marilyn gave us a choice of rooms. We took the room with a queen bed. an attached 3 piece bathroom and a private entrance.  There is no TV in our room, but we do have wi-fi. The bonus is – I can see that iceberg from our bedroom window. It couldn’t be more perfect.

Marilyn asked if we had eaten. We told her we had not, and were hoping to find something in the area, she recommended a restaurant a few km down the road that offered fresh seafood and had entertainment tonight. We settled in our room, had a “before dinner” drink and set off for the restaurant. We arrived to find all tables had a “reserved” sign on them and we were told there was no availability as all tables had been booked for the show.  When I told the waitress, we were staying in the area and the lady who owned the B&B had recommended it,  she asked if we would be willing to just have dinner and not stay for the show (eat and run, so to speak). We  agreed, and they seated us. We both ordered the special of the night – a seafood platter – and we were not disappointed – shrimps, scallops and cod, of course all was deep fried (which we didn’t realize) – some with a heavier batter than others, but I am learning that seems to be common in a lot of restaurants in Newfoundland. 

After dinner we drove to the L’Ans-aux Meadows historic site. It was closed for the day, but we read enough of the signage there to decide that we would rather do that now than an iceberg boat tour. We returned to the B&B. Marilyn met us outside at our door and asked us about the entertainment. We explained all tables had been booked for the show, but we were able to have dinner. We asked her if we could cancel the boat tour that she had booked for us – and she told us she already had – as she didn’t think we would be interested in going out of this location, given that all the icebergs were now in St. Anthony.  We were pleased as now we will visit the historic site and then perhaps go to Norstead (a re-enactment and re-creation of a Viking village) before heading back to Deer Lake tomorrow.